Lincoln, NE – Have you ever tried wines made from the same variety, produced by the same winemaker and each wine is better than the last? Typically, there is an associated increase in price of the wine but there is a distinct improvement with each wine as well. I call this “climbing the ladder” and it’s super fun when you do this with a great wine maker.
This month I “climbed the ladder” with a winery from Abruzzo, Italy called Vigna Madre. Giannicola Di Carlo is the owner. Di Carlo is at the forefront of natural and organic winemaking, and he has been since the 1990’s when this practice was neither common or popular. Giannicola is fanatical about protecting the environment. One could write a book about his efforts to apply environmental stewardship to viticulture and wine making, he is passionate to say the least.
Vigna Madre is located in a scenic location in Abruzzo with the Adriatic Sea to the East and the Apennine mountain range to the West. It benefits from mountain breezes and the coastal influence making farming organically just a little easier. The bottom line is the resulting wine in the glass is remarkable all the way up the ladder. The variety I focused on is called Montepulciano. It’s the most recognizable wine in the Abruzzo region and I frequently find great wines at nice price points enjoyment in Montepulciano.
I started with Vigna Madre Montepulciano d’ Abruzzo “Kriya”, Abruzzo, Italy, $15.00. The wine is ruby red in the glass and offers scents of black cherry, plum, and boysenberry. On the palate the wine is medium bodied. It’s firm, but delicate and easy in the mouth with flavors of dark fruit and a hint of spice. Delicious wine. Versatile for pairing with cheese, meat, and pasta dishes.
88 points
The next step up the ladder took me to Vigna Madre Montepulciano d’ Abruzzo “Becco Reale”, Abruzzo, Italy, $20.00. Becco Reale means woodcock in Italian. Giannicola has a special connection to this rare species of birds that take shelter in his vineyard. This wine sees some time in oak barrels adding to its complexity. The wine is deep ruby red in the glass and has aromas of violets, black plum, and vanilla. In the mouth the wine is supple and smooth with rich texture. It has flavors of cherry, licorice, cocoa, jasmine, and a hint of vanilla. The wine has long finish that lingers. This is an elegant wine.
90 points
The top step on the ladder for this tasting is Vigna Madre Montepulciano d’ Abruzzo Riserva “NOBU 1830”, Abruzzo, Italy, $27.00. NOBU means to extend in Japanese and 1830 is the year when the Di Carlo family began producing wine thus this project emphasizes the desire to continue the family wine making tradition.
This Montepulciano comes from a special selection of grapes and is aged in concrete, amphorae, and French oak barrels for more than a year. In the glass the wine is garnet, on the nose it’s expressive with blackberry, tobacco, and toasted oak notes. On the palate the wine is voluptuous and rich. Black fruit, licorice, and a hint of nutmeg. This is a powerful full-bodied red but nicely structured, not overpowering. Pleasant acidity tames the robust flavors of this wine. This wine is impressive and great for grilled meat!
91 points
Mark McDonald and his wife, Kim, own The Italian Vine, a Lincoln-based
wine distributorship.
For more information on these wines, including where you can find them
in Lincoln or Omaha, email mark.italianvine@gmail.com
