Lincoln, NE – When you think about great wine regions, you instantly think of Bordeaux and Burgundy in France; Piedmont and Tuscany in Italy; Napa Valley and Sonoma in California; and Rioja in Spain, to name just a few. But where does Oregon fit into that mix? I would argue it fits in rather well.
Oregon, with its cool climate, proximity to the sea, and variety of soil types, has all the ingredients for growing exceptional wine grapes. Add to nature’s gifts the soul and spirit of the region’s winemakers, and you have something truly special. To be sure, Oregon wineries are not as commercial as those in Napa Valley or even Sonoma, but the charm of this region is unmistakable.
This column explores three Oregon wineries, each very different from the others. Their size, focus, and stories are all unique and compelling. Most importantly, these wineries produce incredible wines that can be enjoyed by any wine lover.
I started with Brooks Dry Riesling, 2024, Willamette Valley, OR, $26.00. Brooks’ current story dates back to 2004, when founder and owner Jimi Brooks died suddenly from a rare heart condition. His sister, Janie, quickly stepped in to continue his vision. Despite having no experience running a winery, she was supported by the kindness and generosity of 12 neighboring wineries, which helped her through harvest and production for that first vintage. It’s a wonderful story of community and human kindness. Choosing from Brooks’ extensive portfolio was no easy task, but they are especially adept at producing Riesling. The Brooks Dry Riesling is pale yellow with aromas of dried peach, apple, and honeysuckle. On the palate, it is crisp and dry with vibrant acidity, offering flavors of lemon peel, green apple, pear, and a hint of tropical fruit. It is delicate yet serious and leaves the palate refreshed. Easy to enjoy on its own, it would also pair beautifully with spicy Thai or Indian cuisine.
90 points
Next, I tried Beckham “A.D. Beckham” Pinot Gris Amphora, 2022, Willamette Valley, OR, $40.00. The Beckham property is as beautiful as you’ll find, with views of the Three Sisters mountain peaks in the distance on a clear day. The surrounding landscape is wooded, rustic, and gorgeous. Owners Andrew and Annedrea Beckham are genuine, down-to-earth people who are easy to support. Andrew is a high school ceramics teacher, and it was through that craft that he learned to create the amphorae used to age the A.D. Beckham Pinot Gris Amphora. The wine displays unusual orange hues along with earthy, floral aromas accented by tropical fruit and apricot. On the palate, it offers a fascinating mix of stone fruit, mineral notes, and chalky tannins. As unique as it is enjoyable, this is a wine for adventurous drinkers seeking something different. I’d love to pair it with bean and ham soup or another savory, salty dish.
90 points
The final wine I tried was Anne Amie Pinot Noir, 2024, Willamette Valley, OR, $30.00. Anne Amie is a project led by Kim McCloud, a young and energetic wine professional who had worked at the winery for nearly 20 years before the previous owners encountered financial difficulties. Kim’s vibrant personality and passion for Anne Amie shine through in the wines. The Anne Amie Pinot Noir is light ruby in the glass, with aromas of red raspberry, dark cherry, and plum that lead to flavors of cherry cola, juicy strawberry, delicate baking spice, and a hint of vanilla. The wine has lively acidity, light tannins, expressive fruit, and a lingering finish. It’s enjoyable on its own but would be especially well paired with glazed salmon or grilled chicken breast.
89 points
Mark McDonald and his wife Kim own The Italian Vine, a Lincoln-based wine distributorship.
For more information on these wines including where you can find them in Lincoln or Omaha, email mark.italianvine@gmail.com
