Lincoln, NE – Recent trips to the Amalfi Coast and Campania have left one very clear impression on me: this region is perhaps the most underrated wine region in Italy. From intense reds to crisp, aromatic whites, the region has a little bit of everything to appeal to curious wine lovers.
As a wine region, Campania has advantages over most other wine regions in the world. First, the soil. This region is grown almost exclusively in volcanic soil. This porous, mineral-rich soil is ideal for grape growing. Also, uniquely, volcanic soil is phylloxera resistant. You will see centuries-old vines in Campania like nowhere else in the world. Second, the wine regions have close proximity to the sea and mountains, again benefiting natural grape production without dependence on chemical use. Third, in Campania they produce wines that are unique to their region and not found in other regions of the world, making their wines distinctive.
Today, I’m going to review three white wines unique to Campania that are absolute winners.
Starting with Salvatore Martusciello Falanghina, 2024, Campi Flegrei, Italy, $20.00. Made by Salvatore Martusciello, who is a leader in the wine consortium of Campania, he is the Italian Vine’s first producer from this region, and we’re delighted that we found him. Salvatore owns vines very close to Naples and near the sea. The wines reflect this geography. The Salvatore Martusciello Falanghina is pale yellow in the glass and offers subtle scents of lemon, clover, and sea breeze. On the palate, the wine is bright, fresh, and lively with intense minerality. Flavors of citrus, honey, and a subtle salinity envelop the pleasing mouthfeel of this wine. This wine is perfect for a summer salad or grilled vegetables. Delicious wine.
89 points
Next, Antonio Mazzella Biancolella, 2024, Ischia, Italy, $32.00. Winemaker Nicola Mazzella is the third-generation producer for this family winery located on the beautiful island of Ischia. Nicola is widely regarded as one of the best winemakers in all of Italy, and his wines are consistently rated at the top of their category. His success is a combination of talent and hard work. His vineyards are steeply sloped on the island’s cliffs, seemingly dropping off into the sea. Nicola’s operation is biodynamic, and everything in the vineyards is done manually by hand. It’s grueling work, but the payoff is in the bottle. Biancolella is a variety indigenous to Ischia. The Antonio Mazzella Biancolella is straw yellow in the glass. The aromas are enticing tropical fruit, banana peel, and a hint of jasmine. In the mouth, the wine is fresh, easy, with mouthwatering acidity and juicy stone fruit complemented by fresh citrus. This wine is balanced and delightful.
91 points
The last wine is Masseria Frattasi Code di Volpi, 2024, Taburno, Italy, $24.00. The estate is located in the shadow of the Taburno mountain peak near Bonea. One must see this place to understand its majestic beauty. The winery has vineyards at various altitudes in the Apennine mountains. The family has a proud historic connection to this land. Their wines range from some of the boldest expressions of red wine in all of Italy to crisp, world-class white wines. The Masseria Frattasi Code di Volpi is fun. Code di Volpi means tail of the fox in Italian. It’s called that because the grape clusters are long and full and resemble the appearance of a foxtail. The wine is straw-yellow with gold flecks, the nose is subtle with a hint of citrus and flint. On the palate, the wine is crisp, with driving mineral and flavors of green apple, pear, and ripe melon. It’s fresh, interesting and fun. A wine perfect for fresh fruit and cheese and meat plates.
89 points
Mark McDonald and his wife, Kim, own The Italian Vine, a Lincoln-based
wine distributorship.
For more information on these wines, including where you can find them
in Lincoln or Omaha, email mark.italianvine@gmail.com
